It has been a few months now since a new city governor, or
mayor as we would call him, and a new police chief were appointed. The new
police chief vowed to clean up the city and rid it of undesirable elements and
criminals, in particular mentioning Russian crooks. He had one notorious
Russian criminal arrested and swiftly deported. This man had become very close to some local officials and even courts. How else could he have avoided legal repercussions here for so long. This was a headline grabbing
action and gratefully acknowledged by the few other people, mostly other
Russians that had been affected by that so-called oligarch’s activities. The
police chief also promised to clamp down on the traffic police’s illegal
stopping of hapless foreign tourists to shake them down for a few dollars. They
usually found an excuse for pulling them over, but many times they had no cause
for that and then just asked them for their international driver license. After
many complaints from hotels and their guests, not to mention foreign expats, he
told a meeting of business owners that he would put an end to this. This was
also duly reported in the press.
Unfortunately, this did not seem to have trickled down to
the traffic cops on the streets because they happily kept on pulling over
tourists, even demanding as much as $25. This was already in the rainy season
when there aren’t as many tourists in town, so they did have a need to bolster
their meager incomes accordingly.
Lately, however, there appears to be a larger traffic police
presence on the streets, pulling over mostly motorbikes for minor infractions
like not wearing a helmet. The writer could not observe any predilection towards
foreigners. Should the complaints finally render some results?
The job of the traffic police is enforcing traffic laws,
right? Not so in Cambodia. Their job is to collect as many fines as they can from
motorists, both local and foreign, to make a decent living. One could call that
soft corruption. A society needs a police force but they must be paid enough to
support them and their families. With $50 to $100 a month this is hardly
possible. Consequently, one mustn’t really wonder at the audacity with which
some of the traffic cops collect their additional incomes.
There is a new traffic law going into effect this year, to
be fully enforced in January 2016. They introduced stiffer fines for traffic
infractions in order to combat the haphazard driving style encountered on the
roads on a daily basis. The most ludicrous feature of the new law will be that
traffic cops can retain up to 70% of all fines for themselves. That’s the
brightest idea in this respect that I have ever come across in my entire life,
most of it living in several foreign countries. The people who came up with this idea need to
be awarded the medal of stupidity. While we are on the subject, enforcing rigorous schooling and testing for driver licenses would be a good start to
fight the high rate of road accidents and fatalities.
As regards the undesirable elements the immigration police
have been cracking down on illegals. One would not believe that such a problem
exists in Cambodia at all. But not surprisingly, Cambodia attracts a good
number of poor foreigners, or foreigners that have run out of money for various
reasons like drug use, etc. and, of course, low-lives that seek refuge in any
easily accessible country. These people then have no money to extend their visa
so they simply stay on in the hope of not being caught. That went well up to
now as the government wasn’t interested in foreigners at all unless they broke
a law. Now with the work permits being enforced the immigration police is part
of that and in the process weeds out people who overstay their visas. A few
days ago I was subject to such an inspection twice – one at my house outside
Sihanoukville and one at my business, which means they move from house to house
where foreigners live and check on them. They stated they will do their rounds
every three months.
On another front, bag snatching in the dark is a popular
sport of younger thugs riding on their motorbikes, coming on to an unsuspecting
mostly female tourist from behind and ripping the hand bag off their shoulders.
Sometimes the bag doesn’t come off easily resulting in the mugger dragging the
victim along the road for sometimes up to 100 m. One can imagine what scrapes
and wounds these people sustain, let alone the mental anguish they go through
in the aftermath. If one thought that the new police chief would ensure a
larger presence of the police on the streets after, say, 5 pm, would be greatly
mistaken. Police routinely abandon their posts when it starts raining, during
lunch time, and after dark. Only sometimes do they install check-points and
conduct weapon searches. Reports of rape and other violent crimes among the
local population have not decreased either, at least judging from newspaper and
internet reports. So has anything improved? I have my doubts. There are no
tangible results that anyone can see. However, when this one senator published
some questionable documents on Facebook and was promptly arrested for it, the
police were reputedly put on alert. One can only surmise the government expected
that young restless opposition party followers would take to the streets to
vent their anger at this. Consequently, they had no time for any other police
business, or so it seemed.
Sihanoukville is one the main tourist destinations in
Cambodia. As opposed to the early 2000s tourists now travel to Cambodia not
only as an extension to Thailand but as a full destination visiting Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Kampot and Sihanoukville at
least. Unfortunately, Sihanoukville still has a rather negative reputation
among foreign tourists. This is mostly because they see it as one of the
dirtiest cities in Cambodia. Trash is strewn all over the place, the beach is
dirty and unkempt, sewage still flows into the ocean, beggars populate the
beach walkways, even going into restaurants, the streets are flooded after a downpour
and the stench of rotten food permeates many places.
The previous governor made a small effort once to clean the
beach, which indeed helped a short while, but after the various New Year
celebrations it all looked like before. One particular eyesore is the street
directly at Ochheuteal Beach – Mithona Street. The many beachside restaurants' rear faces this street and as is the habit of 95% of all Cambodians they just
deposit their trash behind their restaurant. This makes for a very beautiful
sight, of course. There is a trash removal service, but it you don’t deposit
your trash curbside it doesn’t get picked up. Another very appealing feature is
the restaurants’ restrooms. They are in a state that no normal Western people
would dare use it. And where does all the waste flow. Although there is a
sewage pipe running along behind the restaurants it still flowed into the ocean
in at least 3 to 4 locations. They put up a septic tank at one end but that
quickly overflowed in the rainy season, again producing this intolerable
stench.
It is quite ironic that the government put up a sign at one
of the entrances to Ochheuteal saying, ‘Sihanoukville – the Most Beautiful
Bay’. The bay certainly is beautiful – the beach is far from it.
Otres 1 and 2, very popular destinations, probably outdoing
Occheuteal in a couple of years is no better. The roads along the beach are
still unpaved and full of potholes – dusty in the dry season, and muddy in the
wet season. I am not sure whether there is any trash removal, I know for sure
though there is none at Otres 2. At least they all got city water and
electricity there now.
This all says nothing
about other primary infrastructure deficiencies, such as good drainage, a
working sewage system, proper construction of roadways that last past the next
rainy season, directing the flow of truck traffic , cleaning up shanty towns
(of course, with alternative housing available).
The new governor promised a complete overhaul of the entire
area, designating the southern part of the province for tourist development.
Apart from the extensive construction of new hotels and condominium building,
any progress on those vital issues that affect foreign, especially Western,
tourists, does not seem to have materialized into actions besides the good intentions
the powers-that-be formulated. Those formulations have been plentiful in the
past. Seeing as where we stand now the past 5 years haven’t resulted in any
great strides toward an improvement of the secondary infrastructure.
Just yesterday, however, there was report on the news that
the national government issued an ordinance that would fine businesses up to
$250 if they just dumped their trash at the curb instead of putting it into
plastic bags or appropriate containers. Private citizens would be fined up to
$2.50 if they just dropped their trash on the street or any public place. Let’s
wait whether this will be enforced. I for one will believe it when I see it.